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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.